After the River Recedes...

I watched the news footage from the Indian Ocean Tsunami of 2004 and similar footage from Hurricane Katrina in 2005. But, I never would have imagined that someday it would be my city devastated by floods or my city making International News and asking for donations. Long after the news back home stops showing daily updates about Brisbane and other parts of Queensland, Ryan and I are going to be here watching this city and state rebuild. It's being described by the Premier as a "Reconstruction of Post War Proportions".

And it's already begun. In many areas around Brisbane, the water began receding rather quickly. More quickly than I could have imagined. 24 hours after the major surge, Ryan and I took a walk around our neighborhood.

Our street, which had been flooded the day before, was already being pressure washed...

Our building is directly to the right of where I am standing to take this photo and that black car on the right had water almost up to it's roof

...As was the Dockside Boardwalk, a block away.

24 hours earlier, the river level would have been well over where these men are standing

Kangaroo Point neighbors out cleaning up the Dockside Pathway the morning after the flood. Notice the back end of the boat that got pushed up on the walkway wall during the flood.

The next morning, I turned on the news and saw not only the Army...

(Photo Courtesy of LTMusicPhotography.com)

(Photo Courtesy of AnnSamHill)

But, also an outpouring of volunteers, both young...


and old,

(Photos Courtesy of Andy Zakeli)

descending upon Brisbane to help with the clean up. After they registered, they were bused to the neighborhoods with the most need. By 8 a.m., 5,000 Volunteers had already registered. Later that night we learned that in total 12,000 people had volunteered across the city that day. There has been an incredible sense of solidarity shown by Queenslanders to each other in this hour of need. And believe me when I say People are in need. This is the view for thousands and thousands of people.

(Photo Courtesy of Home_Borealis)

This is what it looks like across the street from our apartment



I knew staying home and watching TV on this Saturday wasn't an option. Even if it was going to be 90 degrees with 70% humidity and even if there was a much anticipated NFL Playoff Game on... we needed to get out and help.

Our friend, Patty, works at the River Life Adventure Centre on Kangaroo Point. We walked over there and helped out for a few hours. The day before, the river had been up to the windows on the lower level. To say that they had some cleaning to do is an understatement. The amount of silt left behind after a flood is indescribable. It was hot and humid, and I was miserable at times. But, then I'd see the young kids next to me cleaning without complaining, and that inspired me to shut up and keep working.

Patty showing off the 1974 Flood Level Sign at River Life. This flood level reached just below that sign

Three Amigos taking a break for a Photo Op

Helping The River Life Centre get back into Operation.

It really has been quite amazing to see the community come together to start the clean up effort. I realize it's only the beginning of a very long process, but if people can keep up this Queensland Spirit that we've been witnessing, I have no doubt that this State will be back to normal in no time.

**To see my full Gallery of photos from our clean up day at The River Life Adventure Centre click on the title of this blog entry.

Safe in the Middle of a Disaster Zone

Growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, I've felt my fair share of Earthquakes, some more severe than others. Until yesterday, that was the closest I had ever come to a natural disaster. When I moved to Queensland a year ago, I came knowing that I would have an adventure. What I didn't expect was that the "adventure" would include being in the middle of these floods that Australia is calling their worst National Disaster ever.

Today is day 21 of the flood crisis. Most of the devastation in the first 19 days was slightly north to northwest of us. We've spent weeks watching the news as town after town was evacuated, most times by helicopter, as the flood water swallowed the entire town. The whole time, the torrential rain didn't let up across Queensland. Back in September, there were reports that it was the wettest September in over a decade, and similar reports came each month following that. The Wivenhoe Damn, considered full at 60%, opened it's spillway in September for the first time in over a decade, and Queensland declared their decade long drought was over. Today, the Wivenhoe Damn is sitting at 180%.

Two days ago, we watched on the news as towns west of us got inundated. The worst being the Lockyer Valley. The towns of Toowoomba and Grantham were hit with a wall of water 26ft high in some places. They are calling it an "inland Tsunami". There was little notice and much devastation. Soon after this, we got notice to prepare because the water was heading our way, and Brisbane WOULD slowly go under in the next 24 hours as that wall of water moved east toward the ocean.

Ryan went into Marine mode. While stationed in Japan, he went through Category 5 Hurricanes. To prepare, he put new batteries in all the flashlights and headlamps, put the flashlights in strategically placed locations around the apartment, filled the bathtub and a 60L tubby of water, made sure all of our candles were handy & went online to a food storage website and made a grocery list for 3 months worth of non perishable foods. After that, we headed to the store. There was no need to panic YET. The water wasn't set to rise drastically for another 24 hours. Thankfully, WE got plenty of notice.

The scene at the grocery store was, I think, typical for the "calm before the storm". It seems EVERYONE had the same idea.


But, I am happy to say, everyone was calm and patient. The workers were trying to fill the shelves as quickly as their customers emptied them. Because of the previous 19 days of flooding north of us, supply trucks haven't been able to get through, and shelves aren't being easily resupplied. Fortunately, We got everything on Ryan's 3 month list except powdered eggs.



After that we waited. I think that was the hardest part. Unlike the Lockyer Valley, the flooding in Brisbane was a slow process, a gradual increase in the river level. We took a walk along the Dockside Boardwalk in the evening, and we didn't really see much of a change in the river that day....

Yesterday, was a different story altogether. I woke up early and decided to walk 50+ yards to where our street dead ends at the river. To say I wasn't prepared for what I saw is an understatement. The entire boardwalk where Ryan and I walked 12 hours earlier was completely underwater and the water was still rising. In the few moments that I stood there, the water level increased enough to submerge one of the boardwalk's benches.





I hurried home to wake up Ryan and tell him what I saw. We turned on the news and learned that the water would slowly rise all day reaching it's peak of 5.5 meters (18ft.) the following morning. So, all day long we watched as the water slowly crept higher just as predicted. We watched as all sorts of debris, large pontoons, pontoons with boats still attached, dumpsters and cars floated down river toward the ocean. Watching runaway yachts and pontoons racing down a raging, dirty river is something I hope to never witness again.

After awhile we lost our power, which meant we couldn't watch news updates. So, we walked around our neighborhood taking pictures. We really didn't have to go far to see flooding, and the major surge wasn't due for another 12 hours. Already, the street just in front of our building was flooded. THAT was quite a sight!!

That's our building on the left

Yup, this me out front of our building before the major surge

I should probably explain.... We live on a narrow peninsula called Kangaroo Point. The Brisbane river is on two sides of us, and we are directly across from the Brisbane CBD.

Aerial view of Kangaroo Point. If you follow the Story Bridge at the tip of the Point to the left... you will see a cluster of tall apartment complexes close to the river. We live right there!!

We walked to both sides of our peninsula and watched as our frequented places got swallowed. I can't tell you how many times, I said, "Oh my gosh, look!" to Ryan or how many other bewildered faces we saw looking on as the river rose. It seems everyone in our neighborhood had the same macabre curiosity as we did. It's like a train wreck. You shouldn't watch...but, you do!!

Usually, the water level is on the other side of that tree line. Notice the submerged car behind the boat.

Behind the Jazz Club there used to be a river front patio that overlooked the Brisbane CBD across the river.

Our most frequented ferry terminal a block away from our house. Brisbane CBD across the raging river.

Since we had no power, Ryan BBQ ed salmon and a pot of peas. Like many of our neighbors, we sat on the balcony enjoying a glass of wine while keeping one eye of the rising, raging river across the street.



As the sun set, we knew the worst was still to come. Like I said, the forecast was for the water to reach it's peak at 4 a.m. For many Brisbane residents, the floods of 1974 are still in recent memory. Many places around Brisbane have painted flood markers showing where the water level reached. To know how high these markers are and to be told that the water is going to be slightly higher was a little disconcerting. So, we went to bed not knowing what to expect at 4a.m.

I can't really say I slept well. There was a bit of tossing and turning, and Ryan and I both were wide awake at 4 a.m wanting to see the effects from the surge. Our entire street was flooded. But, amazingly, the water stopped 20 ft. shy of our buildings front entrance. It looks like a few of the bottom level apartments may have minimal water damage. But, for the most part, our building avoided any major damage.

After looking down from our balcony at 4 a.m and seeing this...


We decided to take another walk around the neighborhood. But, first we had to make our way 5 stories down the pitch, black stairway with only a flashlight. Not fun for someone who is, admittedly, afraid of the dark. Safely outside, we walked around Kangaroo Point to see what Mother Nature dealt us. I think the biggest surprise for me was seeing the 400 meter long floating walkway, a Brisbane landmark, no longer there. I know there are going to be many other "oh my gosh" moments as the water recedes and we see other things destroyed by the current.

The Dockside Ferry Terminal, now an island, a block from our house.
Nature's Cruel joke...a gorgeous sunrise over a very swollen Brisbane River

Aussie Couple taking it all in as the sun rises over so much destruction

How eerie it is to see your neighborhood under water. There are countless neighborhoods far worse off than us. And, in the end, all that really matters is that we, and all of our friends, are safe and accounted for.

We are now set to deal with the aftermath. There will be plenty of clean up and rebuilding to do. Ryan and I are meant to be here for two more years. Something tells me that Queensland will still be rebuilding long after we've moved back to the States.

**To view my entire gallery of flood photos click on this blog's title "Safe in the Middle of a Disaster Zone" above.

Melbourne's Laneways: The Colorful Side

In 1837, when Robert Hoddle planned the original grid design for Melbourne, he included broad and imposing main streets that allowed for the delivery of large cartloads of goods by bullock teams. But, many people started to create their own, human-sized networks between the main streets. Today, these Laneways continue to offer a variety of delights. Some are populated by retail businesses, cafes, bars and street art, while others retain their original form, giving us a rare glimpse into the city's history.

I had a fun time exploring these hidden Laneways, and discovering the true heart of the city. I started the day on Degraves Street, which is crowded with alfresco dining and espresso shops. I, of course, stopped for my daily cappuccino.



Connected to Degraves Street is Centre Place, which is a narrow alley crowded with people, food and flair. No where on Earth have I witnessed such crowds of people happily eating their meals while surrounded by graffiti and rubbish. If there was a seat available, I think I would have gladly joined them, because the food looked and smelled absolutely delicious.



I meandered through a portion of the maze of Laneways finding hidden jewels around every corner.







In many of the laneways, are commissioned street art, AKA graffiti. But, unlike back home, this graffiti isn't defaced and makes the area look colorful and artistic.

















If it weren't for the sudden onset of horrible hay fever symptoms, I would have continued exploring this part of the city. Damn Spring allergies!! It was a short orientation into the famous Laneways of Melbourne. However, now that I know they are there, you won't be able to keep me away.

Stepping Back in Time at The Rocks

Today I wandered through The Rocks, Sydney's oldest neighborhood. The Rocks were home to the Indigenous people for thousands of years. Then, in 1788, Australia's first European settlers- British convicts and their overseers- claimed the land and built their camp atop the cliffs.

The area has a colorful history filled with tales of sailors, rough gangs and gritty life. Many of the buildings survived the past two centuries and have been turned into restaurants, boutique shops and art galleries.

The buildings are joined together by historic brick pathways and underground tunnels. When walking through The Rocks , it's impossible not to imagine what life was like for its inhabitants two hundred years ago. The history simply surrounds you.

I found myself traveling through mazes of brick alleys that, when followed, will lead you to various sunken courtyards with some sort of hidden jewel, such as an outdoor cafe, art gallery or pub. From The Rocks' main streets, these hidden areas are just that - hidden. Unless, you slip into one of the many narrow passageways, you would never even know they were there. All in all, it was great discovering this part of Sydney's past.